Jupe-culotte – The Illustrated London News – Saturday 25th February 1911
THE MOST DISCUSSED DRESS IN THE WORLD: THE JUPE – CULOTTE, FAMILIARLY KNOWN AS THE HAREM – SKIRT OR THE TROUSER – SKIRT
None will deny that the jupe-culotte, as the harem-skirt is called officially, is the most discussed dress in the world. It has made its appearance in, at all events, one theatre in Paris, and on Auteuil racecourse, also in Madrid, and for a brief moment or two last week in London, where it was worn in Regent Street. Amongst the famous French dressmakers who were asked for their opinion by the “Gaulois,” which is quoted by the “Telegraph,” M. Poiret alone champions the new skirt to any extent. He believes that it will remain “the appanage of the really chic woman who has pretty ankles, and who can afford to have her shoes made by high-class bootmakers, and to wear ankle-bangles incrusted with precious stones.” Doucet’s decide that it is impossible for town wear, but, nevertheless, makes divided skirts. Doeuillet’s make it, but prefer the Greek robe with a pure aesthetic outline. Mme. Paquin cays it is not a fashion, but a fad. Laferrieres’ do not care for it; Martial and Armand describe it a fancy dress, possibly suitable for “le footing,” or “le skating,” and “le sport” in general. Mr. Redfern, agreeing that anything is permissible to women, nevertheless would have the harem-skirt worn indoors only. Worth’s consider it the logical outcome of the hobble skirt, “as if one had slit up skirt because it prevented one from walking upstairs”: otherwise they dub it folly. Moreover, they argue; “it will soon spread to Montmartre, and then it will be done for1”
The Illustrated London News – Saturday 25th February 1911
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One of my main interests is a love of old pictures and postcards that give us a brief glimpse into a past and often forgotten age.
Collecting old postcard and pictures enables the viewer to glimpse a brief moment from that individual’s life; often far removed from their own either by the passage of time or social class. Social History, often described as “history from below” shows everyday people, their social structure and the interaction of different groups; like the wealthy and politicians these people helped shape and maintain society and so shape history.
Examining the images one can’t help but wonder how the individuals lived, were their lives hard compared with today and were they happy. Often the images come with little or no information that can answer these questions, one can only imagine.
With each image saved and seen by others, so that moment, that person is kept alive, our understanding is increased and so our lives are enriched.
A picture is often more descriptive than words can ever be, but how true is this, if a picture enables us to gain entry to another time, another world, will, like the view from a different window, even in the same house provide a different image?
These images allow a glimpse into another time, another era; but what preceded or followed this image? As the individuals were positioned and posed like an artist’s model is what we see truly reflective or like the slightly softened image of an aging beauty a less that truthful representation?
I am reminded of a documentary I watched several years ago regarding the returning troops from the front during the First World War. The camera images show a broken, demoralised sea of humanity, young men who having seen images that most of us hope never to witness had lost that sparkle; that zest which only youth has. But bring on the news camera and that battered returning group came to life, the smiles returned and even though muddied and bloodied their heads and bodies became erect, their arms swung in time and they demonstrated a swagger that spoke of courage, defiance and determination; an image that gave hope to the viewer.
It seems to me that even in the early days of photography all was not what it appeared and now in the advancing digital age a picture may paint a thousand words but will it be factual or fiction?
My interests And collections vary from Maids, Nuns, religious dress and the more risqué images of the French Maid. Often when searching for a particular subject the boundaries cross and as well as true Maids we find Edwardian actresses dressed as Nuns or Maids. During one of my searches I came across Gabrielle Ray dressed as a Maid, “Susan” in Lady Madcap and was instantly captivated by her.
Collecting the individual cards isn’t enough; I like to know more about the individual, which is easier when that person is an actress, although often the information is scarce
Searching for information about Miss Ray I discovered that she was one of the most photographed women of the Edwardian era and described in “Temps” as the most beautiful woman in the United Kingdom; but sadly her success, if measured by being visibly working or in the public eye was short-lived. She struggled with depression and alcohol abuse, and her health declined. In 1936, she suffered a complete mental breakdown and was institutionalized for nearly forty years; dying in 1973 at Holloway Sanatorium at the age of 90.
There are several other sites and blogs dedicated to the memory of Miss Ray and my intention is to share my small but growing collection of pictures and postcards with anyone who shares my interest. Reading about Miss Ray I was saddened that this lady, like many others before and since, after a brief moment in the sun they are soon forgotten. Hopefully as people view and enjoy this blog her memory will remain alive for a little longer.
I have started to write a short Biography about Miss Ray which I will try to update as frequently as possible. The Index page will show any updates under the Biography catagory.
I have also tried to link the various postcards and pictures to the plays in which Miss Ray appeared, however I realise, after several errors that this isn’t an easy task as many are decorative studio poses rather than production images. The individual Rotary, Philco and other publishers numbers are included with any description which should make searching for a particular card or ones from the same set easier. If I have made any glaring errors please feel free to let me know.
Thank you and I hope you enjoy my collection as much as I do.
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